Shimano Tiagra 4700 cables, derailleurs and BR-4700 rim brakes

How to tell which Tiagra 4700 parts you have

• RD-4700-SS and RD-4700-GS are the two rear derailleur versions. They clamp the shift cable in grooves in different positions, so check which one you have before you clamp a new cable. If there is an arrow on the derailleur near the cable clamp, follow it.
• RD-4700 pulleys have no direction arrow, unlike the pulleys on some other Shimano road derailleurs.
• RD-4700 barrel adjuster has no cover with a tongue on it. If you are reading the shared dealer's manual, skip the steps for that cover; they are for RD-9000, RD-6800 and RD-5800.
• ST-4700 is the lever for a double crankset. ST-4703 is the version for a triple crankset. Both are covered by the same dealer's manual.
• BR-4700 is a dual pivot rim brake caliper. It comes with one-piece brake shoes (R50T5 or R50T4), where the pad and holder are a single part. Cartridge shoes, where you slide a new pad insert into a metal holder, are a different type.
• BL-4700 is the flat-bar brake lever in the same series. It has a mode switch: C/R for caliper, cantilever and road mechanical disc brakes, V for V-BRAKE.

Tiagra 4700 specifications

Torque figures

On carbon handlebars, Shimano says to check the lever clamp torque with the bar maker.

Replace the shift cable at the ST-4700 lever

Before you start: shift to the smallest rear sprocket first, so the lever is in its top position.

1. Loosen the cable fixing bolt at the derailleur and pull the old cable out from the lever end.

2. Push the release lever 10 times or more to make sure the lever is in the top position.

3. Roll the bracket cover back from behind, using both hands. Pulling it hard can tear it.

   From DM-ST0002, installation (p.6)

4. Pry off the cable cover with a flat screwdriver. Feed the new inner cable through the lever until the cable end seats in the shift unit. Do not scrape the polymer coating on the way in.

5. Fit the cap with short tongue on the casing at the lever, route the casing as shown in the manual, and press the cable cover back on.

   From DM-ST0002, installing the shift cable (p.9–13)

6. Cut new SP41 casing with a TL-CT12, cutting at the end away from the printed marking. Open up the liner with the TL-CT12 needle to 2.2 mm or more, round off the cut end and push the casing fully into its outer cap without crushing the tip of the cap.

7. Use a normal outer cap at the lever end. At the derailleur end, use a sealed outer cap (resin type) and the cap with long tongue.

   From DM-ST0002, outer cap types (p.10)

8. Grease the inner cable and casing. If the factory grease has been wiped off, use SIS SP41 grease. Do not use Premium Grease or any other grease on shift cables.

9. Tape the casing to the bar, wrap the bar tape, then clamp the cable at the rear derailleur as in rear derailleur adjustment or at the front derailleur as in front derailleur adjustment.

Shimano recommends a new SL cable guide each time you replace the inner cable. Take off the lever and bracket cover, remove the cable cover, pry the old guide out with a pointed tool, push the new one in by hand and refit the cable cover.

If the cable has snapped and the cable end is stuck in the lever, take the lever off the bar, remove the bracket cover, then remove the screws at the bottom and take off the unit cover and lower cover. Pull the cable end off the hook on the winding body without touching the spring. Refit the covers and tighten their screws to 0.20–0.25 N·m.

Replace the brake cable at the ST-4700 lever

Before you start: replace any brake cable that is rusty or frayed. Do not reuse it.

1. Use BC-9000, BC-R680 or BC-1051 brake cable: 1.6 mm inner, 5 mm casing.

   From DM-ST0002, brake cable (p.8)

2. Undo the cable fixing bolt at the caliper and pull the old cable out of the lever.

3. Pull the brake lever as if braking to open up the cable path, then feed the new inner cable through. Check the cable end is fully seated in the cable hook inside the lever.

4. Route the cable so it does not rub on the shift lever or on the metal adjuster at the caliper. Leave enough casing for the bars to turn fully both ways.

5. Tape the casing to the bar for now so it stays in place while you set up the caliper.

6. At the caliper, close the quick release. Hold the shoes so each sits 1.5–2 mm from the rim, then clamp the cable with a 5 mm hex. Tighten the cable fixing bolt to 6–8 N·m with a torque wrench.

   From DM-GN0001, caliper brake (p.128)

7. Center the caliper and set the final clearance as in centering and clearance.

8. Squeeze the lever hard about 10 times to settle the cable, then check clearance again and do the brake test before riding.

To change how far the lever sits from the bar, turn the reach adjustment bolt with a 2 mm Allen key. Clockwise makes the lever stroke smaller, counterclockwise makes it larger. Check the brakes work properly afterward.

Adjust the RD-4700 rear derailleur

Before you start: use a full-length hex wrench, not a ball-end one, in the mounting bolt. A ball end can strip the hole and the derailleur then will not shift properly.

Fit the derailleur and check chain length

1. Thread the derailleur onto the hanger with a 5 mm hex wrench and tighten to 8–10 N·m. Watch that the B-tension bolt does not hit the dropout tab and bend.

   From DM-RD0003, installation (p.8)

2. Double crankset, largest sprocket 27T or less: put the chain on the largest chainring and smallest sprocket. Size it so a line through the centers of the two pulleys is at a right angle to the ground (90° or more).

3. Double crankset, largest sprocket 28T or more: wrap the chain around the largest chainring and largest sprocket without going through the derailleur. Find the shortest length that will join, then add 2 links.

4. Triple crankset: with a largest sprocket of 30T or less, use the largest chainring and smallest sprocket method. With 32T or more, use the plus 2 links method.

   From DM-RD0003, chain length (p.8–10)

5. Run the chain on the derailleur body side of the plate or pin in the cage. The wrong side can damage the chain and derailleur.

Do not cut the chain at a reinforced connecting pin or a QUICK-LINK, and do not reuse a QUICK-LINK once it has been taken off. HG54 10-speed chains are directional: the side with the markings faces out. See also how to set chain length.

Set the limit screws and clamp the cable

1. Top limit: shift to the smallest sprocket. Looking from behind, turn the top adjustment screw until the guide pulley sits directly under the outer line of the smallest sprocket.

   From DM-RD0003, top adjustment (p.12)

2. Seat the inner cable in the correct groove. The RD-4700-GS groove is in a different place from the RD-4700-SS groove; follow the arrow on the derailleur if there is one.

3. Clamp the cable, shift a few times to take up the initial stretch, then loosen the bolt, pull the cable taut and clamp it again. Tighten the 4 mm cable fixing bolt to 6–7 N·m.

   From DM-RD0003, securing the inner cable (p.12–13)

4. Low limit: shift to the largest sprocket and turn the low adjustment screw until the guide pulley is directly under the largest sprocket. If the cage plate comes close to the spokes, tighten the low screw further.

   From DM-RD0003, low adjustment (p.14)

A fuzzy look on the coated cable is only cosmetic.

Set the B-tension bolt

1. Shift to the smallest chainring and largest sprocket and turn the crank backward.

2. Turn the B-tension bolt until the guide pulley is as close as possible to the sprocket without touching it.

3. Shift to the smallest sprocket and check the same thing there.

   From DM-RD0003, B-tension adjustment (p.14)

Adjust the indexing

1. Shift to the second smallest sprocket.

2. Push the shift lever only far enough to take up its free play, without shifting, and turn the crank. Hold the lever there.

3. The right setting is when the chain touches the third sprocket and makes a noise. If the chain jumps up to the third sprocket, turn the barrel adjuster clockwise until it drops back to the second. If there is no noise, turn the barrel adjuster counterclockwise until the chain touches the third sprocket and makes a noise.

4. Let go of the lever and turn the crank. If the chain still touches the third sprocket and makes a noise, turn the barrel adjuster clockwise a little until the noise stops.

   From DM-RD0003, SIS adjustment (p.14–15)

5. Shift through every gear and listen for noise. Keep the chain and derailleur lubricated.

If you cannot get the shifting right, check the hanger is straight, the cable is clean and greased, and the casing is the right length. For the general method, see how to adjust a rear derailleur.

Replace the RD-4700 pulleys

1. Remove the pulley bolts with a 3 mm hex wrench and take out the pulleys. The replacement set is Y5RF98070, and the pulley screws (2 pcs.) are Y5V598140.

2. Fit the new pulleys. RD-4700 pulleys have no direction arrow to line up.

3. Tighten the pulley bolts to 2.5–5 N·m.

   From DM-RD0003, pulley replacement (p.18)

Replace a pulley when it has enough play to make noise.

Adjust the FD-4700 front derailleur

Before you start: make all screw and barrel adjustments in steps of 1/8 turn and check after each one.

1. Band clamp: snug the clamp bolt. Use the low screw to bring the outer plate parallel to the big ring, set a 1–3 mm gap between the outer plate and the big ring teeth, then tighten the clamp bolt to 5–7 N·m.

2. Brazed-on mount: fit the backup plate where the support bolt touches the seat tube, not on top of protective tape. Set the front of the outer plate parallel to the big ring with the rear end turned 0.5–1.0 mm inward, set the 1–3 mm gap, and tighten to 5–7 N·m. Then use the support bolt to make the outer plate parallel.

   From DM-FD0002, installation (p.5–8)

3. Check the converter setting with the TL-FD68 tool. With the outer plate parallel to the big ring, fit the tool's pin into the right-side link shaft hole and over the cable fixing bolt, pull the cable through the slit in the tool and see which side of the center line it falls. If it falls on the outer side, the converter should be OFF; on the inner side, ON. To switch it, push the converter out with a 2 mm key, turn it 180° counterclockwise and push the pin back in.

   From DM-FD0002, converter (p.9–11)

4. Push the release lever 3 or more times to put the lever in the L-trim position. Route the cable as shown for the ON or OFF setting, clamp it, shift a few times to take up the initial stretch, then clamp it again while pulling it taut. Tighten to 6–7 N·m.

5. Low: chain on the small ring and largest sprocket. Use the low screw to set 0–0.5 mm between the chain and the skid plate on the inner chain guide.

6. Cable tension: chain on the big ring and largest sprocket, with the lever released from top to the T-trim position. Use the barrel or inline adjuster to set 0–0.5 mm between the chain and the inner plate.

7. Top: chain on the big ring and smallest sprocket. Use the top screw to set 0–0.5 mm between the chain and the outer plate.

   From DM-FD0002, adjustment (p.12–17)

If the skid plate is worn, cut a slit in the old one with pliers to get it off, then push the new one (Y5P116000) in until its claws catch on the back.

If the chain rubs the front derailleur in the most crossed gears, shift to the next larger rear sprocket, or the one after, to stop it.

BR-4700 brake shoe replacement and centering

Oil and shoes: keep oil and grease off the brake shoes and the rim braking surface. Shoes that have had oil or grease on them must be replaced, not cleaned.

Replace the shoes when the grooves in the pad are worn away, or if oil or grease gets on them. Ceramic rims wear standard shoes faster.

Replace the brake shoes

1. Open the quick release on the caliper. Undo the 4 mm shoe fixing bolt on each shoe and take the old shoes off.

2. Fit new R50T5 or R50T4 shoes. Position each one so the pad meets the rim braking surface squarely and sits at least 1 mm below the top edge of the rim.

3. Set 0.5 mm toe-in: the front end of each shoe, in the direction the rim turns, should touch the rim first.

4. Tighten each shoe fixing bolt to 5–7 N·m with a torque wrench. Check the shoe has not twisted while you tightened it.

   From DM-GN0001, caliper brake (p.128)

If someone has fitted cartridge shoes (pad inserts in a holder, such as the R55C types), you change only the insert. Remove the 2 mm mounting bolt, slide the old insert out along the groove, slide the new insert in with the L/R and FORWARD marks the right way, and tighten the bolt to 1–1.5 N·m.

Set clearance and center the caliper

1. Close the quick release. Each shoe should sit 1.5–2 mm from the rim. Use the cable adjustment nut to change the clearance, or reset the cable at the fixing bolt if it is far out.

2. If one shoe sits closer to the rim than the other, turn the centering adjustment bolt with a 3 mm hex until the gaps are even.

3. Reset the clearance with the cable adjustment nut after centering.

   From DM-GN0001, caliper brake (p.128–129)

4. To balance the spring force of the two arms, or change it, use the spring adjustment bolt with a 2 mm hex.

   From DM-GN0001, arch spring tension (p.130)

If the caliper itself is loose, tighten the mounting nut to 8–10 N·m using a 5 mm hex and a 10 mm wrench, with the arms squeezed so the shoes touch the rim. Use self-locking (nylon insert) nuts. On frames with recessed nuts, the nut must turn at least six times (BL0001; GN0001 says five), and use thread locker when refitting. Never fit a rear caliper on the front. If an arm hits the frame when you turn the bars, fit the frame protection sticker.

Test the brakes before riding

1. Squeeze each lever hard about 10 times. Check that the cable has not slipped, the clearance is still 1.5–2 mm and the shoes hit the rim and not the tire.

2. Spin the wheel and check the shoes do not rub.

3. Check the quick release on each caliper is closed.

4. Roll the bike forward and squeeze each lever in turn. Each brake must stop its wheel firmly before the lever gets near the bar.

Parts and consumables

Tools

• 2 mm, 3 mm, 4 mm and 5 mm hex wrenches (full-length, not ball-end, for the derailleur mounting bolt)
• 10 mm wrench for the caliper mounting nut
• Torque wrench (values on this page run from 0.15 N·m to 50 N·m)
• TL-CT12 cable cutter with liner needle
• TL-FD68 cable fixing point checking tool for FD-4700
• #1 and #2 cross head screwdrivers, flat screwdriver
• E-ring tools Y6RT66000 and Y6RT68000 (only for taking the ST-4700 lever apart)
• Snap ring pliers (listed for RD-4700 service)
• TL-LR10 or TL-LR15 lock ring tool, TL-SR23 or TL-SR24 sprocket remover, adjustable wrench

Troubleshooting by symptom

Rear shifting will not run quietly whatever you do with the barrel adjuster

Check the hanger is straight, the cable is clean and greased and the casing is not too long or short, then redo the indexing. If the derailleur links have so much play that it cannot be adjusted, replace the derailleur.

Noise from the derailleur cage

A pulley has play in it. Replace the pulleys.

Chain falls off the big ring toward the crank

Turn the FD-4700 top screw clockwise in 1/8-turn steps. See front derailleur adjustment.

Hard to shift up from the small ring to the big ring

Tighten the front cable with the barrel or inline adjuster. If that does not help, turn the top screw counterclockwise.

Hard to shift down from the big ring to the small ring

Loosen the front cable tension.

Chain rubs the front derailleur in the most crossed gears

Shift to the next larger rear sprocket, or the one after.

Oil or grease on the brake shoes

Replace the shoes. See brake shoe replacement.

Brake shoe grooves have worn away

The shoes are worn out. Fit new R50T5 or R50T4 shoes.

One shoe drags on the rim

Recenter the caliper with the 3 mm centering bolt, as in centering and clearance.

Brake cable rusty or frayed

Replace the cable.

Shift cable snapped inside the lever

Remove the stuck cable end through the bottom of the lever body, as described under shift cable replacement.

Related: Shimano 105 R7100, Shimano Hollowtech II cranks, Adjust a rear derailleur, Set chain length